Reflections from Cuba

December 9, 2002

It does feel a little strange being in Cuba, because on the one hand the embargo has prevented most Americans from visiting here for many years, while on the other Cubans welcome Americans; they make a clear distinction between Americans and the American government. In fact, Cubans love Americans. That is one of the things that makes Cuba a mystery, as was India, but for different reasons. Cuba is a mystery that won’t be solved, or understood, in our short three-day visit. So I can only give you some first impressions.

Like the other two “communist” countries we visited (PRC and Vietnam), there are many mixed signals in Cuba. A first sign of a blended economy – government controlled along with private enterprise – is evident right away in the burgeoning tourist industry, which is designed, for the moment anyway, for everyone except Americans. Our first interaction, after stepping out of the ideally located, newly constructed ship terminal, right across from the Plaza de San Francisco and the exquisitely restored colonial buildings of Old Havana, was with the many horse and carriage drivers and other guides ready to show us around. Tourism, as a private industry, is very much a part of Cuba today.

Havana is a truly impressive city, with its 16th century fortress on one side of the harbor entrance and another fortress on the other. Further down, on the western side of the harbor, is the 19th century seafront boulevard known as the Malecon. Old Havana is being restored gradually block by block, and there are many colorful, quaint baroque style churches, museums, shops, and residences looking great, with as many looking much in need of urgent renovation.

Our first afternoon was spent at the University of Havana, where over one hundred students served as our hosts and guides for a rousing and inspiring welcome reception. After a brief opening speech by one of the student leaders, we all ascended the 85 steps up to the center of the campus with John Lennon’s “Imagine” playing over the loudspeaker. In the quad above, over the bandstand, hung a huge banner proclaiming “Against Terrorism, Against War, For World Peace.” I attended one of the three programs they had arranged for us, on U.S.-Cuban Relations, and learned that there used to be a 1 to 6 differentiation between the lowest and highest salaries when all jobs were controlled by the government, but that now, when communism and socialism are able to coexist with capitalism, those engaged in private enterprise (the tourist industry principally) can earn 10 to 20 times more than others. The spirit and enthusiasm of our hosts, the Cuban students, was truly inspiring. They were especially warm and helpful.

That evening, many of us attended a baseball game at Latin American Stadium in Havana. It was the finals of the first National Olympic Games of Cuba, the East vs. the West, teams made up of the best players of the country. It was an excellent game, the first six innings a pitchers duel, and the last three a hitters showcase. The Cuban student we had as one of our host/guides was very proud of his national team that had split a two game series with the Baltimore Orioles not too long ago.

The next day, we went on an Afro-Cuban Heritage tour, and learned much about how indigenous African religions (particularly Yoruba and Bantu) have merged with Catholicism in Cuba, as well as how all people are seen as Cubans. They do not even use the label Afro-Cuban, since Cuban means African and Hispanic to them. Cubans are all one people. It was clear to me that there has been much more mixing of the ethnic groups here, and that this seemed more natural and accepted than it seems in the U.S., but I was still curious. I asked two of our student-hosts if there is prejudice, discrimination, or racism here. After a quick consultation between them, I received a very interesting, and perhaps surprisingly honest answer. “There is none by the government, because all people are equal. But after 400 years of slavery, 40 years of the revolution is not enough to do away completely with prejudice.”

That evening, we experienced one of the real highlights of our voyage, a special meeting with Fidel Castro! This was the fourth time he has met with Semester at Sea students during their visit to Cuba. We had just learned that he had been on the Barbara Walters show recently, and had spoken about the importance of Semester at Sea because of its contribution toward helping the peoples of the world to get to know each other. All seven hundred of the students, faculty and staff had been invited to dialogue with him at the Cuban parliament, along with about five hundred Cuban students of all ages and grade levels. He spoke briefly about his interest in Semester at Sea, recalling spontaneously our entire itinerary, how there could be 20 such ships sailing the globe with students learning about the peoples of the world, and that here, in Cuba, we are in a strange situation, because “you are visiting an ant living in the proximity of an elephant.” He went on to explain: “For over 40 years, misinformation and lies have fallen over this ant… Since Elian, we have been waging a battle of ideas… I have heard about a 100 years war, but never a blockade that lasted more than 10 years.” Then he opened it up to questions, making it clear he was willing to address any topic. His answers, though, were so extensive that we were only able to get in about four questions in three plus hours.

A few of his comments from among the many he made as part of his long-winded answers: “Our revolution was a revolution of the humble against the powerful…” “The social justice I wanted to achieve was not incompatible with the Bible…” “We are in the midst of an economic crisis… We are promoting knowledge, health, and services… The economic problems of the world are more and more complicated…” And to the Semester at Sea students he said: “Your tour of the world is to learn to do something better for the world.”

After voyaging around the world, I can say that I do see things differently, with different eyes, with more compassion, with deeper understanding, with a greater sense of urgency, and with a more comprehensive connectedness.