UNIVERSITY OF SOUTHERN MAINE
INTEGRATED PEST MANAGEMENT PLAN
INTRODUCTION
It is the responsibility of the University of Southern Maine to implement pest management plans that include the least amount possible of pesticide application due to the risks pesticide exposure poses to human health. Integrated Pest Management (IPM) is an ecologically based strategy focused on long term prevention of pests and their damage through the sustainable use of biological, cultural, physical, and chemical tools in a manner that minimizes economic, health, and environmental impacts and risks. IPM is defined in the State of Maine’s IPM statute (Title 7 Chapter 413) as “ the selection, integration, and implementation of pest damage prevention and control based on predicted socioeconomic and ecological consequences, including: A: Understanding the system in which the pest exists; B: Establishing dynamic economic or aesthetic injury thresholds and determining whether the organism or organism complex warrants control; C: Monitoring pests and natural enemies; D: When needed, selecting the appropriate system of cultural, mechanical, genetic, including resistant cultivars, biological or chemical prevention techniques or control for desired suppression; and E: Systematically evaluating the pest management approaches utilized.”
Other than being an outlet for the protection of human health, IPM’s potential for reduced reliance on chemical control of pests holds many benefits for the natural environment by reducing associated air, groundwater and soil pollution as well as reducing the introduction of chemical toxins into the systems of area flora and fauna (NRAES, 2002; ME Dept. of Agriculture, 2000; MA IPM Council, 2000). IPM is not limited solely to cultural control; if deemed absolutely necessary to keep pests below threshold levels, chemical control in the form of judicious pesticide application may also be used. Understanding the life cycles of pests, as well as their basic needs and interactions with their environment, is crucial to effective IPM implementation. Often, pest populations can be controlled or prevented by creating inhospitable environments through blocking access to basic elements needed for survival, such as air, moisture, food and water. Cultural or mechanical control methods that do not rely on the use of pesticides also hold economic benefits by generally being less expensive in the long run than periodic pesticide applications (NRAES, 2002). Most important in the implementation of IPM is the acute understanding of the nature of a target pest in order to adequately select least-risk management options grounded in economics, ecology, and human health.
POLICY STATEMENT
In order to align with the University of Southern Maine’s duty to protect the health of and serve as an example for students, faculty, and community, it was deemed necessary to limit pesticide use and create an Integrated Pest Management Plan for the University’s Gorham campus. Therefore, it is hereby the policy of the University of Southern Maine to only use pesticides when pests have been identified and, despite exhaustive cultural control efforts, their presence remains beyond threshold levels established by the University IPM Coordinator or Maine Bureau of Health. Selection of treatment or prevention actions will give priority to least-risk management options. When it is determined that pesticides are needed for pest management, only products registered for use in the State of Maine will be applied, and strict label compliance will be adhered to. Applications will be undertaken only by individuals licensed by the Maine Board of Pesticides Control except in emergency management situations to control stinging insects that pose an imminent threat to human health on University grounds. Students, faculty, and staff will be educated about IPM in order to aid implementation through participation. Students, faculty, and staff will be notified prior to pest management activities (including posted notification 48 hours in advance of any and all pesticide applications except emergency control of stinging insects per the University IPM Coordinator). In addition, a log will be kept of all pest sightings and management activities and will be available to the public upon request. The University IPM Coordinator and the IPM Advisory Committee will review this plan and all management actions connected with it every year. After this review, revisions may be necessary in order to better implement IPM practices.
PEST MANAGEMENT OBJECTIVES
v Maintain a safe and sustainable University environment
v Protect the health of students, faculty, staff and community members by controlling or eliminating pests that pose an imminent threat to public health and safety
v Reduce or eliminate human exposure to pesticides through use of least-risk management practices
v Reduce or prevent pest damage to University property
v Reduce environmental pollution and degradation
v Maintain economically sound practices
v Enhance the overall quality of life for those who work at, live in, or visit the University
APPOINTMENT OF UNIVERSITY IPM COORDINATOR
The University will appoint an IPM Coordinator responsible for policy implementation and site plan review. In detail, the Coordinator’s responsibilities include but are not limited to the following:
v Keeping accurate records of all reported pest sightings in a log book
v Keeping accurate records of all management activities, including pesticide use in a log book
v Coordination of all management activities with pest control staff or contractors
v Approval of contracts for pest management and oversight of contracted pest management services to ensure adherence to University IPM policies by contractors
v Approving appropriate pesticide applications through monitoring of applicator methods, materials, timing and location
v Posting and notification (no less than 48 hours before, and to remain for length of non-entry period) of pesticide applications
v Evaluating the University’s progress in adherence to the IPM plan and reporting said evaluations to the University IPM Advisory Committee
v Review of site treatment plans and revision when deemed necessary
v Coordination of outreach programs to educate students, faculty, staff and community members on IPM practices and methodology
CREATION OF A UNIVERSITY IPM ADVISORY COMMITTEE
An IPM Advisory Committee consisting of members representative of the USM community will be created. The Committee’s duties may include but are not limited to the following:
v Development of long-term site treatment plans for various University locations of concern
v Evaluation of the University’s progress in adherence to the IPM plan
v Facilitation of communication between departments and other University entities
v Resolution of pest management issues, pesticide issues, and pest concerns
v Development of acceptable pest thresholds
v Consultation with public relations personnel and local news media on pertinent issues
RECORDKEEPING
A logbook of all pest sightings (through scouting and through chance) and pest management activities will be kept in the Facilities Management office in Anderson Hall of the USM Gorham campus. This log will be kept current by the University IPM coordinator and will be available for public viewing upon request. Additionally, any time a pesticide is used for pest management, a copy of the pesticide label, as well as the pesticide’s Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) will be kept on record in an easily accessible location as a reference for applicators on proper use, storage, and safety.
EDUCATION AND LICENSING OF FACILITIES MANAGEMENT STAFF
In an effort to comply with the mandates of the Maine Board of Pesticides Control, educational outreach to Facilities Management staff will be an essential part of IPM implementation. Any applications of pesticides on University property must be undertaken by a licensed pesticide applicator. If pesticide applications are not undertaken by an outside contractor, those employees of Facilities Management responsible for any pesticide application prescribed by either the University IPM Coordinator or the University IPM Advisory Committee must be licensed by the Maine Board of Pesticides Control. All other employees of Facilities Management involved with IPM but not responsible for pesticide application must attend all educational seminars hosted by Facilities Management or the Maine Board of Pesticides Control as mandated by the University IPM Coordinator or Advisory Committee.
PEST IDENTIFICATION, THRESHOLD ESTABLISHMENT, AND NECESSARY TREATMENT METHODS
The following are informational abstracts on potential pests specified by typical location (indoors or outdoors). The abstracts include physical characteristics, life cycles, desired habitats, and necessary IPM treatment methods for controlling or eradicating the target populations.
OUTDOOR PESTS
JAPANESE BEETLES (Popillia japonica)
Life cycle:
v 1 year life cycle: egg-larva-pupa-adult
v Metallic green and copper colored adults mate in July-August
v Young larvae are c-shaped and white and are active from August-September and April-June
v With autumn and cooler temperatures, larvae burrow underground 4-8 inches to over winter
v With spring and warming of soil (60°F), larvae return to the root zone and begin feeding
v Larvae mature, pupate in June, and emerge from the ground in early July
v Adults will travel up to two miles in search of sunny, well irrigated turf for egg laying; eggs are laid in late July and August
v Preferred host species for adult beetles include cherries (wild and cultivated), apples and crabapples, lindens, Norway maples, hawthorns, roses, and lilacs
Japanese beetle egg mass Japanese beetle larva
Japanese beetle pupa Japanese beetle adult
Symptoms of Infestation:
v Heavily infested turf will appear to be under drought stress, will be off color (gray-green) and will wilt rapidly
v Irregularly shaped patches of damage will be most readily noticed in sunny, dry areas
v Turf may feel spongy underfoot and may be rolled up like sod due to lack of roots
v Scavengers (such as raccoons, skunks and crows) may tear up large areas of turf in search of grubs
Damage Thresholds:
v General damage threshold requiring action is 8-12 grubs per square foot on non irrigated turf; 20-30 grubs on daily irrigated turf
v For adults, general damage threshold is 2 of 4 sampled branches containing 4 or more beetles per leaf (Sadof and Moser, 1997)
Scouting Method:
v Scout turf from May 15th to June 15th , and July 15th to October 1st
v To choose locations for grub monitoring, look for evidence of animal or bird feeding activity, and/or thick dark green turf areas exposed to full sun
v Remove a square foot of turf and search the top 1-2 inches of soil for grubs
v Record grub count at each location, noting any areas with counts above the established threshold (8-12 grubs per square foot for unirrigated turf; 20-30 grubs per square foot if well irrigated)
Management:
v Avoid planting tree or shrub species known to be desirable as food sources for adults (such as lindens, cherries, apples and crabapples, Norway maple, etc.)
v Map locations of susceptible ornamental plantings and turf
v Hand pick and destroy (by crushing) adults; in heavy infestation periods, this may have to be done several times daily
v Promote bird species known to be predators of Japanese beetles, such as chickadees, robins and blue jays
v Consider the use of biological pesticidal controls (such as parasitic nematodes, especially Steinernema glaseri and Heterorhabditis bacteroiphora). Applications of nematodes should be watered in carefully in late afternoon or early evening to avoid desiccation.
v Map and monitor locations above threshold levels for spot treatments with insecticides if abovementioned cultural controls are not effective. Insecticides useful in Japanese beetle grub control include imidacloprid (trade name: Merit) or halofenozide (Mach 2)
v Timing is essential with insecticide application to eradicate Japanese beetle grubs. Grubs are most susceptible to chemical control immediately after they hatch (generally in August). As a general rule, rapidly acting insecticides should be used later in the treatment periods (late August or early May), where slower acting materials should be applied early in the treatment period (early August or late April). If soil moisture is unusually low at time of treatment, the treatment area should be irrigated a day or two before application to draw grubs into the upper root zone, and the treatment should be watered in. Be sure to verify the reentry period for the chosen insecticide, and post the treatment area.
EASTERN TENT CATERPILLAR (Malacosoma americanum Fabricius)
Life cycle:
v 1 year life cycle: egg-larva-pupa-adult; one generation per year
v Outbreaks frequently occur at eight to ten year intervals
v Reddish brown adults with oblique white bands on their forewing mate in July, leaving on small twigs a collar shaped, glassy, dark egg mass approximately 1 inch in length. Each egg mass contains 150-300 eggs
v Masses remain on trees until early spring when tree buds swell and begin to open; hatchling larvae feed on tree buds and begin to construct tent-like silken masses in branch crotches of preferred trees (including wild cherries, apples and crabapples)
v Larvae are black with blue markings and a solid white stripe down the back, and are covered with tan hairs. Full grown larvae are 2-2.5 inches in length
v Larvae feed for a period of six to eight weeks; full grown larvae have a habit of migrating to protected areas on other trees, buildings, fences and other structures to spin cocoons for pupation
v Pupal stage lasts three weeks; cocoons are yellow and silky
v Adults emerge around the first or second week of July and live just long enough to mate (less than a week)
E. tent caterpillar egg mass E. tent caterpillar larva Silken web of E. tent caterpillar
Symptoms of Infestation:
v Glossy black egg masses approximately 1 inch in length are found on trees between late July and April of the following year
v Silken tent-like webs are found in branch crotches between April and May
Damage Thresholds:
v General threshold requiring action is extensive defoliation within or any exfoliation beyond 3 feet of a larval web. However, Eastern tent caterpillar is purely an aesthetic nuisance unless on a new transplant, so any treatment should be undertaken judiciously
Scouting method:
v Begin looking for egg masses on susceptible trees (cherries, apples and crabapples) in the fall after leaves have dropped; record where found and how many
v Look for webs in susceptible trees when buds begin to show (late March-early April)
Management:
v Natural enemies of the eastern tent caterpillar include certain species of birds (chickadees, robins, and blue jays), parasitic wasps, and toads. Promotion of these species (using care with wasp promotion) often is an effective control on eastern tent caterpillar populations.
v From July until early spring, twigs containing egg masses can be pruned off and destroyed through first crushing and then coating with a mix of dish detergent and water (one cup detergent to one gallon water. The egg masses themselves may also be removed from the twigs if done carefully so as not to leave any remaining eggs; again, apply the detergent mix to the area where the egg mass was, and to the crushed egg mass itself
v Mechanical removal of webs when they appear in early spring is an effective method of cultural control. Removal should be done in the evening when larvae have returned to the web. Gloves should be worn to avoid skin irritation; once the web is carefully and entirely removed, it should be either completely crushed on pavement or dropped into a pan of soapy water (one cup to one gallon detergent/water mix) to kill all larvae
v Since Eastern tent caterpillars are purely an aesthetic nuisance, use of biological or chemical pesticidal controls are unwarranted and will not be employed
GYPSY MOTH (Lymantria dispar Linnaeus)
Life Cycle:
v 1 year life cycle: egg-larva-pupa-adult
v Infestations are cyclical (2-4 years light, 2-4 years heavy)
v Preferred host trees include oak, elm, speckled alder, linden, birch, willow, and hawthorn
v Adults mate in late July-August, leaving buff to white colored egg masses on tree branches and trunks and in other sheltered locations
v Egg hatching coincides with budding of hardwood trees in the spring; larvae emerge from April to mid-May and are dispersed in two ways: either they hang from host trees by silky threads and are dispersed by wind, or are dispersed by contact with traveling entities, such as other animals, vehicles, firewood, household goods, etc.
v Male larvae go through a succession of five molts or instars (females go through six); with each, size increases until the pupal stage is reached. Older larvae have five pairs of raised blue spots and six pairs of raised red spots along their backs. With the first three instars, larvae remain in the crowns of host trees. Small holes chewed in leaves are indicative of the first instar; chewing from the leaf edge to the center is indicative of second and third instar. Larvae in the fourth, fifth and sixth instars climb to the tops of host trees and feed at night; during the day, they rest and seek shelter nearer the tree’s base in bark crevices or in dense population situations in leaf litter.
v Pupation begins in late June, lasts 7-14 days and occurs in former larval resting places. Male adult moths emerge first, followed by egg-laden females.
v Males fly in zigzag patterns in search of females who emit pheromones to attract their mates; the female then lays her eggs near the pupation spot, and both adults die within a few days
Larval egg mass of gypsy moth Gypsy moth larvae (5th instar) Gypsy moth pupae
Adult female gypsy moth Adult male gypsy moth
(with egg mass)
Scouting:
v After hardwood trees drop their leaves in autumn, scout for buff colored egg masses on trunks and branches; record number and location of any found
Management:
v Encourage bird species such as chickadees, blue jays, nuthatches, and robins, as well as mammals such as shrews, chipmunks and squirrels. Each of these species are natural predators of gypsy moth larvae
v Remove objects around campus that may provide shelter to larvae and pupae (such as branch piles, flaps of bark, dead trees, etc)
v Increase tree diversity on campus by planting tree species not preferred as hosts by gypsy moths, such as tuliptree, honeylocust, ash, hickory, dogwood, mountain ash, and most conifers
v Destroy any egg masses found during scouting or at other times by scraping off and depositing in a mix of dish detergent and water (one cup/one gallon). Be sure to wear gloves when handling egg masses; the hairs that coat them may trigger an allergic reaction in sensitive individuals
v Place burlap around the trunks of preferred trees (especially oaks) to provide shade and shelter for older fourth or fifth instar larvae. Doing this gives an opportunity to assess how severe the infestation is. If infestations are sparse to moderate, larvae and pupae found beneath the burlap can be manually destroyed by crushing
v Use barrier bands, consisting of double sided tape or petroleum jelly on susceptible trees to prevent larvae from climbing the trunks. Products should be applied on an impermeable surface, such as duct tape or tar paper; applying petroleum based products directly to the tree trunk can cause injury to thin barked trees
v Biological pesticidal control in the form of Bt is also an effective form of control—apply to foliage of preferred trees after larvae first hatch (April- mid May)
v If pesticides must be used in heavy infestation years, carefully apply Orthene (acephate) to crown foliage early in larval development (1st or 2nd instars in April –early May)
Wasps, Hornets, and Bees (various species)
In general, the abovementioned insects prove to be more beneficial to humans and wildlife than detrimental. Without the pollination that bees provide, most plant life (including agricultural crops) would cease to exist. Wasps and hornets are important predators to many plant pests; without the natural control they provide, many insects that are currently minor annoyances would become a serious pest problem. However, for sensitive individuals, an insect sting could be serious or even fatal. For this reason, it is important to exercise some form of control of stinging insects in areas where humans congregate, such as door entryways and picnic or luncheon areas. Below are descriptions of the life cycles of the stinging insects, as well as preventative measures that can be taken to adequately control them.
Honey Bees (Apis mellifera most common)
Life Cycle:
v Social insects; live in large colonies ranging from 20,000 to 80,000 bees
v Construct a hive which is often used for years; collect nectar and pollen to feed larvae, and store honey in wax honeycombs
v Bees gain all of their dietary needs from flowers
v Colonies consist of 3 different groups: the queen (sole fertile female), workers (infertile females), and males
v Males develop from unfertilized eggs, lack a stinger, cannot collect nectar or pollen and cannot feed themselves. Their sole function is to mate with the queen, after which they perish
v Bad weather (windy, cloudy days) seems to affect the bee’s temperament, due to the fact that workers cannot forage for honey or nectar. On these days, bees are more irritable and may attempt to drive humans and other perceived threats away from the hive
v Generally, if left alone, honeybees will not sting
Management:
v Honeybees are generally mild-mannered. Due to this, and their importance as pollinators, control in any form is not advisable. Occasionally, bees may swarm in search of a new site to colonize. If this occurs on University grounds, a professional beekeeper should be contracted to install the bees into a nest box for relocation.
Wasps and Hornets (various species)
Life cycle:
v Mated queens over winter in tree hollows, attics, walls, and crawl spaces. In early spring, they emerge from hibernation to seek food (nectar) and water. After gaining strength, they seek a nest site in the ground, in a hollow tree, or attached to elevated structures (such as buildings or trees)
v Nests are constructed from carton, a paper-like material derived from digested plant material and saliva
v Once nests are constructed, eggs are laid
v Eggs hatch within a few weeks into larvae (entirely female) resembling maggots
v Adults search for protein and carbohydrate sources (such as caterpillars, insects, dead animals, and garbage) to feed to larvae
v As the all female larvae become adults (and workers), nest and colony size increases
v With the arrival of autumn, mating occurs again; however, this brood contains male and female larvae
v Male adults do not possess stingers—they perish quickly after mating
v Young queens scatter and hide for the winter; the old (previous year’s) queen and workers die around the first frost
v Nests are usually abandoned by November
v Many wasps and yellowjackets are aggressive stingers (an exception is the umbrella wasp); any encounters with the insects should be undertaken with caution. It is essential to remain calm when faced with a wasp or yellowjacket, as quick or excited movement will be interpreted as an act of aggression
Scouting:
v Look for wasps and yellowjackets entering and exiting from possible nest locations (such as wall voids in buildings, hollow trees, pipes, eaves, tree or shrub branches, exposed soil which might be a ground nest, etc.) and record location
v Ground nests often are surrounded by exposed or bare soil, or are housed in downed logs or landscaping timbers
Management:
v Much like ants, management of wasps and yellowjackets depends largely on prevention through sanitation. Any outdoor food sources, such as trashcans, dumpsters, luncheon or picnic areas must be cleaned as frequently as possible to avoid attraction of the insects
v Yellowjacket traps are commercially available and effective for control. Place traps near suspected nest sites and empty when full by placing in a freezer for a day to kill trapped pests, emptying traps and washing with soapy water. Refresh bait in traps after cleaning and reset near nest sites. Do not place traps in areas where humans congregate
v Seal openings in walls, fences, and pipes to prevent nest construction
v If nests are in a location distant from human activity, avoid any treatment. If nests are located in areas where disturbance is inevitable (such as athletic fields or in the vicinity of outdoor food areas), they must be removed or treated promptly
v Remove nests in dormant season (typically November-March) to avoid reoccupation
v In the event that all cultural methods have been exhausted and wasps remain a threat to human health, nests may be treated with an aerosol insecticide designed to shoot a freezing spray from a distance. Apply insecticide when it is least likely to drift (generally on clear, windless late afternoons or evenings)
v In the event that all cultural control methods have been exhausted and yellowjackets remain a threat to human health, nest locations should be flagged at a distance. Personnel should wear full protective gear, and at night (when yellowjackets are least active) dump a dust pesticide (such as Sevin) in the nest entry hole and water in.
APHIDS (VARIOUS SPECIES)
The many different varieties of aphids are numerous, so a general approach to management must be taken for control. Below is a general description of appearance, lifestyle, and habit along with management recommendations.
Life Cycle and Characteristics:
v Aphids are soft-bodied insects that use sucking mouthparts to feed on plant sap
v Generally, they occur in colonies on the underside of terminal plant growth
v Infestations generally result from small numbers of winged aphids who light on a host plant (preferred host depends on variety of aphid and varies from pine to fruit trees)
v Mature aphids deposit several wingless young on the tender plant tissue before moving on to find a new plant. The immature aphids or nymphs that are left behind feed on plant sap and increase gradually in size
v Aphid nymphs mature in 7 to 10 days and then are ready to produce live young. Usually, all of them are females and each is capable of producing 40 to 60 offspring
v The process is repeated several times, resulting in a tremendous population explosion. Less than a dozen aphid "colonizers" can produce hundreds to thousands of aphids on a plant in a few weeks. Aphid numbers can build until conditions are so crowded, or the plant is so stressed, that winged forms are produced. These winged forms fly off in search of new hosts and the process is repeated
Aphid colony on the underside of a leaf Sooty mold due to honeydew deposits
v Aphids produce large amounts of a sugary liquid waste called "honeydew". The honeydew that drops from these insects typically spots the windows and finish of cars parked under infested trees
v A fungus called sooty mold can grow on honeydew deposits that accumulate on leaves and branches, turning them black. The appearance of sooty mold on plants may be the first time that an aphid infestation is noticed; additionally, the presence of ants (who feed on the honeydew) may serve as an indicator. The drops can attract other insects such as ants that will feed on the sticky deposits.
Damage Threshold:
v If aphid colonies are found on about 5% or more of foliage tips of a plant or planting, then a cultural control measure should be considered. However, unless aphids are suspected of transmitting disease, their damage is purely aesthetic. Control is only warranted on severely stressed or newly transplanted plants
Scouting/Management:
v Early detection is the key to reducing aphid infestations. The flight of winged colonizers cannot be predicted, so weekly examination of plants will help to determine the need for control. Examine the bud area and undersides of the new leaves for clusters or colonies of small aphids. The presence of these colonies indicates that the aphids are established on the plants and their numbers will begin to increase rapidly
v Aphid control is most valuable for new plantings, where excessive sap removal is more likely to affect general plant vigor. Established and otherwise healthy plants can tolerate moderate to heavy aphid infestations, although affected leaves may wilt and turn yellow and there may be some premature drop
v Good cultural practices, such as watering and fertilization, will help to reduce stress caused by these insects
v Problems with honeydew and sooty mold may develop but tend to be temporary and disappear after the aphids are gone
v Small numbers of individual colonies on small plants can be crushed by hand or removed by pruning as they are found
v Often a rapid flow of water from a garden hose directed at aphid colonies will also provide adequate cultural control
v Encourage natural predators, such as ladybird beetles
v Control of sucking insects with insecticides is often difficult because of the insects' capacity to reproduce rapidly. Also, they may develop resistance to the chemicals. If cultural methods are exhausted and chemical control is deemed absolutely necessary for severely stressed or newly transplanted trees, acephate (Orthene) or imidacloprid (Merit) can be used to control aphids
TURF ESTABLISHMENT AND MANAGEMENT
Properly established turf is an important preventative measure in successful integrated pest management. Quality turf is inexpensive to maintain, warrants less frequent irrigation, and minimizes unwanted pest establishment. Below are suggestions for establishing turf either by sod or by seed; both methods require the same soil preparation and each can be managed in the same manner once established. Also included are management recommendations for successful maintenance of turf.
Soil Preparation:
v Test area soil (for information on soil testing in Maine, please contact Dr. Samantha Langley-Turnbaugh at 207-780-5361)
v Lime to adjust pH based on soil test
v Apply starter fertilizer at the rate of 1.0 lb. Phosphorous / 1000 square feet (M)
v Roto-till amendments into the top 4" of the soil mix
v Finish grade
v Firm soil and finish rake
v Seed or sod
Sod Establishment:
v Select top quality sod from a reputable sod grower
v When root mix is sandy material, request sod grown on sandy soil; if not
available, purchase washed sod
v Sod should be laid quickly, rolled and then irrigated with sufficient water
to wet the soil beneath
v Maintain moist soil beneath the sod by irrigating on a daily basis or as
needed for the first three weeks
v Restrict use until sod is well established (minimum of 4 - 6 weeks)
Seed Establishment:
v Select top quality seed varieties from a reputable seed dealer
v Seed at half rate in one direction and at half rate in a perpendicular direction
v Seed in August - September or May - June
v Lightly rake seed into the top 1/8 - 1/4" of the soil
v Roll to firm seed in contact with soil
v Mulch
v Irrigate lightly and frequently (maintain moist seedbed) until seed
germinates
v As turf develops, increase amount of irrigation and interval between
irrigation
v Irrigation will be critical to proper establishment over the first two
months
v Restrict use until turf is well established, usually 2 - 4 months
v Athletic fields require a full year to mature before use
Grass species well adapted for use in Maine as athletic fields or general lawns include Kentucky Bluegrass, Creeping Red Fescue, Chewings Fescue, Hard Fescue, and
Perennial Ryegrass. Following are delineations of species selection based on the type of turf usage:
v Mixtures including Kentucky Bluegrass, Fescue and Perennial Ryegrass are best.
v Level A athletic fields: 80% Kentucky Bluegrass (2-3 varieties),
20% Perennial Ryegrass (2 varieties)
v Level B athletic fields: 60% Kentucky Bluegrass (2-3 varieties),
20% Red Fescue, 20% Perennial Ryegrass
v General Lawns: 40% Kentucky Bluegrass (2 varieties), 20% Chewings Fescue, 20% Hard Fescue, 20% Perennial Ryegrass
v Certain varieties of fescue and perennial ryegrass have Endophytes, a beneficial fungi, that controls surface feeding insects. Choose to use these if available.
v Improved varieties of each species exist and should be considered for use. The following have good, general characteristics based on The National Turfgrass Evaluation Program (http://www.ntep.org/):
v Kentucky Bluegrass: Liberator, Award, Midnight, Nuglade, North Star, Baronie, Odyssey
v Perennial Ryegrass: Citation III, Linn, Stardance, Pennfine, Advantage, Palmer III, Secretariat, Brightstar II, Calypso, Premier II, Pennant II
v Chewings Fescue: Shadow II, Banner III, Brittany, Tiffany, Bridgeport
v Hard Fescue: Discovery, Reliant II, SR 3100, Osprey, Defiant, Nordic
v Red Fescue: Florentine, Shademaster II, Jasper
Athletic Fields require different levels of maintenance and performance according to the amount and type of use they get. Schools generally have two kinds of athletic fields. Level A fields are game fields where a higher level of maintenance and performance is required, and Level B fields are practice and recreation fields requiring a lower level of maintenance and performance. Below are guidelines for managing each type of field:
Level A Fields:
v Irrigate to supplement rainfall. Provide 1.0 inch of moisture per week with
early morning applications
v Mow at 2.0 - 3.0 inches, frequently enough to remove 1/3 of the leaf blade or
less. This also eliminates clipping build up
v Mow with sharp mowers, when turf is dry and soil is not excessively moist.
v Soil Test, and adjust pH as needed
v Fertilize with 50% - 100% water insoluble (WIN) material. Use rate of 0.75 lb. Nitrogen / 1000 square feet (M) around May 15, June 15, Sept. 1, and Nov. 1
v Phosphorus and potassium fertilization amounts should be based on a soil test
v Aerate once or twice per year either in the spring or fall
v Overseed thin areas of field in May - June or September
v Limit games or practices when field is wet; particularly when soil is moist--
traffic on wet turf or excessively wet soil is particularly damaging
v Scout for weed, insect or disease problems
Level B Fields:
v Irrigate, in late summer, if turf is dormant and field will be used for fall
sports
v Mow at 2.5 - 3.0 inches, frequently enough to remove 1/3 of the leaf blade or
less. This also eliminates clipping build up
v Mow with sharp mowers, when turf is dry and soil is not excessively moist.
v Soil Test and adjust pH as needed
v Fertilize with 50% - 100% water insoluble (WIN) material. Use rate of 1.0 lb. Nitrogen / 1000 square feet (M) around May
15, and Sept. 1
v Phosphorus and potassium fertilization amounts should be based on a soil test.
v Aerify once per year either in the spring or fall
v Overseed thin areas of field in May - June or September
v Limit games or practices when field is wet; particularly when soil is moist--
traffic on wet turf or excessively wet soil is particularly damaging
v Scout for weed, insect or disease problems
The amount of water needed for healthy and productive turf varies according to the amount and type of field use. High-use athletic fields need 1.0" of water per week during the growing season from either rainfall or irrigation. Less water is needed in spring and fall and sometimes slightly more is needed in summer, depending on turf condition and use. Below are some irrigation guidelines:
v All athletic fields used for fall sports benefit from late summer irrigation during a drought period. This irrigation reduces the need for chemical inputs
v Kentucky Bluegrass needs more water than Fescues
v Clay soils hold more moisture and hold it longer than sandy soils
v Turf with southern exposure uses more water than that with a northern exposure
v Areas with full sun use more water than areas with partial shade conditions
v Low humidity, high temperatures and sunshine lead to greater water use
Why to avoid excess irrigation:
v Wet turf is weaker and more easily damaged by traffic or play
v Wet soil compacts and reduces potential for optimum growth
v Water and air must be balanced in the soil; excess water suffocates roots
v Excess water leaches nutrients out of the root zone and contaminates groundwater
v Wet turf is more susceptible to fungal diseases
Turf Irrigation Techniques:
v Calibrate irrigation system output
v Match irrigation rate to the infiltration rate of the soil
v Irrigate infrequently and deeply (2 - 3 times per week)
v For best efficiency and to reduce disease potential, irrigate in the early morning hours
CLUSTER FLIES (Pollenia rudis)
Life cycle:
v Up to four generations per summer: egg-larvae-pupae-adult
v Parasitic; hosts are earthworms
v Eggs are deposited singly into cracks or exposed areas in the soils of lawns; generally eggs are laid near earthworm burrows
v Eggs hatch in 3-7 days; larvae (maggots) parasitise earthworms for 2-3 weeks before pupating 1-2 weeks in the soil
v Adult flies of the last generation of the year become plentiful in mid August-early September. As days become shorter, they seek warm places to hibernate during the winter, usually within walls, attics, storage rooms and basements of houses and other structures
v Hibernating adults are stimulated by warmth to resume activity indoors at any point during the over wintering period. This characteristic causes cluster flies to be a nuisance throughout the winter months at any time warming is experienced, such as on a sunny day or when a room is heated. However, adults stay indoors until spring when they return outside to parasitize earthworm hosts
Symptoms of Infestation:
v Sluggish flies that emerge indoors with warm winter days or heating of basements, attics, or penetrable walls
v Flies often sun themselves on tree stumps and warm building exteriors in late summer-early autumn shortly before hibernation
Damage Thresholds:
v Although cluster flies are parasites of earthworms, they do not significantly reduce earthworm populations. Therefore, they are more of a nuisance pest, and treatment of them should be undertaken judiciously
Scouting Method:
v Look for sluggish flies indoors on warmer winter days; note how many observed and location (building and area within)
v Look for flies on the sunny side of building exteriors in August-October; again, note where and how many seen
Management:
v Indoor control of cluster flies is best achieved by blocking access. Any cracks or gaps in the exterior of buildings or around windows should be caulked or boarded over; attic vents should be screened
v Sticky fly ribbons can be placed in fly prone areas such as attics or basements to help control indoor populations
v In winter, sluggish flies that emerge with warming can be either manually crushed or vacuumed. Prompt vacuum bag disposal after vacuuming flies is essential
v If, after all cultural control methods have been exhausted infestations are severe enough to warrant chemical control, insecticides containing pyrethrin or permethrin may be carefully applied to exterior surfaces of window and door frames and any other suspected points of entry in mid August. Efforts should be concentrated on the upper stories of the southern side of buildings where flies were intolerable the previous winter. Again, since cluster flies are purely a nuisance and pose no health threats, chemical control methods should be avoided as much as possible
Small ants (various species)
Most ants found in the Gorham, Maine area do not pose a threat to human health and safety. Ants are mainly considered indoor pests due to their propensity to enter buildings in search of food and water to take back to their nests. Prevention, more than treatment, is the key to ant pest management. Below are steps that can be taken to prevent ant infestation:
v Keep food preparation and serving areas clean, dry and free of grease buildup
v Clean up food and drink spills promptly
v Keep food in pest-proof containers
v Empty wastebaskets and other trash receptacles frequently
v Trim trees, shrubs and grass that are in contact with buildings
v Clean stormwater gutters frequently
v Repair plumbing leaks and remedy any condensation problems promptly
v Caulk cracks in structures to prevent entry
v Keep screens, weather-stripping and door sweeps in good repair
v Remove any infested stumps and trees near buildings
v If a trail of ants is found indoors, watch them to determine where they are entering from, and what food source they are attracted to. Seal the entrance point with caulking, remove the desired food source, and vacuum the ants along with a small amount of cornstarch to kill them. Wash the suspected trail with soapy water to remove the scent ants leave to lead nest mates to the former food source
v If ant nests are found on school grounds, mix a solution of soapy water (3-4 tablespoons of dish soap per gallon of water) in 5 gallon buckets. Standing a foot from the nest, slowly pour the soapy water into the nest. Poke holes in the nest with a stick and continue pouring the soapy water in. Continue pouring the solution into the mound and using the stick to expose it until no more live ants can be seen. Excavate the mound with a shovel, dispose of in a waste receptacle, and pour soapy water into the resulting depression.
v In the event of severe ant infestation, baits or gels containing a low-risk insecticide such as hydramethylnon may be used
COCKROACHES (various species)
Life Cycle:
v Three stages in life cycle -- egg, nymph and adult; approximate life cycle 6 months in length, 1-2 generations per life cycle
v Females carry a bean-shaped egg capsule (ootheca) which protrudes from their abdomen and is ¼ inch in length. 4-8 ooetheca may be dropped in a lifetime. Each ooetheca contains 30-50 eggs
v Once the ooetheca is dropped in a secluded location, nymphs hatch within a month, and develop into adults within 2-4 months
v Nymphs resemble adults but are smaller, and undergo successive molting until adulthood is reached
v Adults are ½ inch in length with a flattened, oval shape, spiny legs, and long filamentous antennae. They possess wings but rarely fly
v Most cockroaches produce a secretion or chemical that has a repulsive odor. This characteristic odor can be detected in infested areas
v Cockroaches are most active at night and live in groups. During the day, they live in cracks and crevices that are dark and moist. Roaches also like to spend time on porous surfaces, such as wood, cardboard and paper—because they can saturate these surfaces with their odor—which attracts other roaches to these areas
v Roaches eat anything that is organic—food scraps and crumbs, grease, garbage, cotton and wool fabrics, cardboard and wallpaper glue. Without food and water adults may die in two weeks. However, they can live with only water for up to a month
v Roaches can cause allergic reactions in some people. The response is caused by roach "allergen" that is ingested with contaminated food or inhaled when dried fecal particles and fragments of ground-up bodies of dead roaches are mixed with house dust
Symptoms of Infestation:
v Signs of roach inhabitance (such as fecal matter, shed
skins, egg cases) in locations that are likely food sources
( kitchens, bathrooms, trash storage areas, and basements)
Damage Thresholds:
v Since roaches are potential harborers of disease, and cause
allergic reactions in many people, any signs of infestation should be cause for concern
Scouting Method:
v Locate potential cockroach harboring sites by making a
map of all sites where cockroaches or signs of inhabitance have been spotted. Mark any spots that are likely to provide harborage or food. Note any sanitation problems, such as food or grease buildup or improper trash storage or disposal. Note any plumbing leaks or condensation. Look for entry points, such as holes in walls, floors, or ceilings, spaces around pipe entries to walls, spaces around electrical conduits, or vents
v Conduct a thorough inspection of suspected harboring sites. This will be most effective after dark, when cockroaches are most active. Inspections should be done with the lights off, using a flashlight with a yellow filter to prevent light disturbance. Mark locations where cockroaches were observed on the map
v To determine the extent of the roach problem and assess the results of future treatments, monitor infested areas identified through inspection by placement of sticky traps (commercially available). Traps should be placed flush against vertical surfaces (roaches like to travel along surfaces where vertical and horizontal edges meet, such as wall and ceiling. Date each trap and mark trap locations on the map
v After 24-48 hours, pick up traps, count and record the number of cockroaches contained. Traps with high numbers of roaches indicate a harboring source nearby; management efforts should be concentrated on these areas
v A few weeks after treatment, place traps in infested areas again to assess how well treatments are working
Management:
v Limitation of food, water, and harborage is one of the most effective mechanisms in roach control. Practice immaculate sanitation, including proper trash storage and disposal. Designate certain areas for eating. Store dry goods in cockroach-proof containers (ie Tupperware or airtight canisters). Keep kitchen surfaces dry when not in use. Avoid the use of drip pans, and promptly repair any leaks or condensation problems. Eliminate cracks and crevices by caulking—before beginning the sealing process, be sure to vacuum and wash areas to remove fecal matter, egg cases, etc. Weatherstrip around doors and windows that might serve as entry points
v Vacuum live cockroaches using a vacuum equipped with a HEPA filter (capable of filtering very small particles), then freeze the roaches in a bag to kill
v If cultural control methods have been exhausted and infestation persists, judicious use of chemical controls should be considered. The recommended method is the use of baits, where a roach food source is mixed with a toxicant. Small amounts of baits should be placed in numerous areas where cockroaches congregate or travel. Avoid harsh environmental conditions, such as extreme heat or cold. Check baits frequently and refresh if necessary
SILVERFISH
Life Cycle:
v Life cycle: egg-nymph-adult; average life cycle up to three years
v Adults lay eggs in small groups containing a few to 50 eggs. The eggs are very small and deposited in cracks and crevices. A female normally lays less than 100 eggs during her lifespan of two to eight years. Under ideal conditions, the eggs hatch in two weeks, but may take up to two months to hatch.
v The young nymphs are very much like the adults except for size. Several years are required before they are sexually mature, and they must mate after each molt if viable eggs are to be produced. Populations do not build up rapidly because of their slow development rate and the small number of eggs laid.
v Adults are small, soft insects without wings, and are ½ -1 inch in length and brown-silver. The abdomen has three filaments extending from it
v Silverfish normally live outdoors under rocks, bark and leaf mold, in the nests of birds and mammals, and in ant and termite nests. However, some migrate indoors, and are commonly found trapped in sinks or washbasins
v Silverfish feed on cereals and non-food items such as paste, paper, starch in clothes, rayon fabrics and dried meats. Of particular concern in a University setting is damage to library volumes through silverfish feeding
Symptoms of Infestation:
v Silverfish are nocturnal animals and can run very swiftly, so unless trapped in a basin of some sort, spotting one is nearly impossible. Damage often appears as irregular patches of glaze removed from wallpaper or irregular and notched edges on wallpaper or other paper products. Scales, excrement, or yellowish stains on paper or fabric can also indicate the presence of silverfish or firebrats
Damage Threshold:
v Generally, indication of damage described above is cause for concern. However, since development rates are slow and egg counts are small, populations do not grow very large over time, and control of any form should be undertaken judiciously
Scouting Method:
v Look for the type of damage described above, especially in books or paper storage areas, and record locations for future treatment
Management:
v
Tidy up areas where cardboard,
wood and paper are stored. Practice
preventative measures (strict sanitation, sealing cracks and crevices, removing
food
and moisture, etc.) to prevent inhabitance
v Silverfish can be trapped by covering the outer surface of a small jar with masking tape and allowing the insect to climb up the outside. No bait is needed-- the insects will fall into the jar and can't climb out due to the smooth inside walls. The traps should be placed in paths normally used by silverfish, such as bookcases or next to the baseboard on the floor.
v Due to the slow population growth of silverfish, and the effectiveness of cultural controls and preventative measures, chemical control is not warranted, and should not be undertaken
RODENTS (Rats and Mice)
Vertebrate pests such as rats and mice are numerous in species, yet all can be controlled in a similar manner. Below are guidelines for identifying a rodent problem, methods for monitoring and maintenance, and preventative measures.
Symptoms of Infestation/Methods for Monitoring:
v Look for droppings, marks from gnawing or rubbing, and burrows. Dust suspected travel routes with talcum powder to track rodent activity. An ultraviolet light will cause rodent urine to fluoresce; record any locations of suspected rodent activity for future treatment reference
Preventative Measures/Management:
v In most cases, rodents can be managed without chemical control. Proper sanitation practices and blocking of potential entrypoints will prevent rodents from finding their way indoors. All debris, brush, trash and discarded items near buildings should be removed to reduce shelter opportunities. Fallen fruit from trees and shrubs should be collected and removed. Lids should be kept on outdoor trashcans at all times, and dumpster lids should be closed after trash deposits. Close off or caulk any openings in structures that are greater than ½ inch in diameter
v Traps can also be used to control rodent populations. Several types of traps are commercially available; the type of trap used should kill trapped rodents in a quick and humane manner. Snap traps are the least expensive and generally kill instantly. Use an attractive food source, such as peanut butter, to lure rodents to the trap. Check traps daily for rodents, and dispose of promptly.
v Chemical control of rodents is only warranted in the case of severe infestations. Rodenticides should only be applied by a applicator properly liscenced by the Maine Board of Pesticides Control, and should be placed in tamper-resistant bait stations in areas that children do not have access to
This Integrated Pest Management Plan was researched and written by Andrea Burke, University of Southern Maine Arboretum Research Assistant, in 2002 and 2003.
LITERATURE CITED
Maine Dept. of Agriculture. 2000. Integrated pest management for Maine schools. ME Dept. of Agriculture, Augusta ME.
Massachusetts IPM Council. 2000. Integrated pest management guidelines for structural pests. MA IPM Council, Boston.
Natural Resource, Agriculture, and Engineering Service Cooperative Extension. 2002. Integrated pest management for northeast schools. NRAES, Ithaca NY.
In addition to the literature listed above, many web resources were consulted in the construction of this plan, including the following:
University of Florida IPM. Website: http://www.schoolipm.ifas.ufl.edu
University of Maine Cooperative Extension. Website: http://www.umext.maine.edu.
University of Maryland Structural Urban Entomology Program. Website: http://pest.umd.edu/ipm/structural/urbanIPM.html.
University of Massachusetts—The Cockroach Home Page. Website: http://www.bio.umass.edu/kunkel/cockroach.htm
University of Massachusetts--Massachusetts School IPM. Website: http://www.umass.edu/umext/schoolipm
University of Vermont Extension. Website: http://ctr.uvm.edu/ctr/pubs/apc829a.htm.
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